Foundation Paper Piecing Tutorial

Foundation paper piecing (FPP) is a fun technique that allows us to piece shapes that would be difficult or impossible to piece traditionally. It also allows for very precise piecing, especially when using small pieces, even if the shapes could be done traditionally.

It can look a bit intimidating at first, and will take a little getting used to, but it opens up so many new design possibilities that I hope you will give it a go.

A few years ago, I wrote a tutorial for the Clover blog. I'm in the process of updating it to post the full thing here, but I have linked it at the bottom of this blog post for you while I get the updates done.

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Foundation Paper Piecing Basics

First up, let's cover a few FPP basics.

Foundation paper piecing is sometimes confused with English paper piecing (EPP), but while both use paper templates, the two are not the same. FPP is done using a sewing machine, and by sewing the fabric to the paper template, while EPP is a hand sewing technique where fabric is wrapped around a paper template that is then removed and can be reused. FPP templates usually are one-time use only (except when using freezer paper, but that's a different tutorial).

In FPP, a printed template (usually) has multiple sections divided by seam lines. Each section is a different patch of fabric, and the fabric gets lined up along those printed seam lines and then stitched together through the paper by following the seam line. This way we can get very exact seams, even with weirdly shaped pieces of fabric.

Example of a template from the Puffin block pattern

FPP templates are always mirror images of the actual final block design. This is the thing that trips most people up at the beginning. FPP is done by sewing the fabric to the back of the paper template (so that the printed seam lines are visible when sewing). Once the fabric is sewn on, the paper is flipped over and the design will be right side around. Don't let this confuse you too much, though, the tutorial below shows all the steps in detail.

FPP patterns look a bit different from designer to designer, but they all have some things in common. They include templates, either a single one if the block can be pieced in one go like a Log Cabin or an Economy Block, or multiple templates that need to be pieced individually first and then sewn together to make up the block design.

Each template will usually be made up of at least two sections divided by solid lines (occasionally a template will only be a single section), and surrounded by a dashed or dotted line. The solid lines are seam lines, and the dashed line denotes the seam allowance around the template that is needed to sew the finished piece to another piece, or a finished block into a quilt. Not all designers include the seam allowance, so always make sure to read the pattern instructions carefully to see if you need to add it on before cutting the template out.

The paper stays in the block, or block sections, as long as possible. It helps stabilize the section, and ensures that seams line up. Eventually it will need to be ripped out, though, and depending on the block, that can be a bit tedious. I cover a few methods in the tutorial about how to make that part easier.

My top tips for successful foundation paper piecing

Always use the colouring diagram if one is included (and I believe a good pattern should have one, or have coloured templates). This is especially helpful when piecing intricate patterns with lots of (small) pieces. It can get confusing quite quickly and you may get lost in the design and sew the wrong colour fabric. Colour the diagram with your chosen fabric colours, and then colour or label the templates the same way. I find it easier to keep track of my fabrics if it's right on the template and I don't have to refer back to the colouring diagram for each piece.
There are many brands of specialty foundation papers available at quilt shops, and if you will be doing a lot of FPP, I would recommend getting some. They are thinner than regular printer paper and easier to rip out at the end. If you are not doing a lot of FPP, regular printer paper works just as well though.
Shorten your stitch length. This will make ripping the paper out easier, especially if you're using printer paper and not specialty foundation paper. A shorter stitch length perforates the paper more, and it also helps to keep the stitches from getting loose when pulling on the paper.
You can also run the tip of a pin along the stitched lines, helping to perforate the paper even more.
Another way to make removing the paper easier is to use a water pen or a cotton swab dipped in water to help dissolve the paper. Run the pen or cotton swab along the seams to soak the paper, then pull on it to remove it.
Always start and end sewing a little past the line you are on. If the line extends to the seam allowance surrounding the template, stitch all the way across the seam allowance and off the paper.